What type of hair responds best to laser hair removal treatments

Laser hair removal will work on light hairs that contain dark pigment. This treatment has no effect on light hairs that are blonde, red, grey or white in colour. These hairs don’t contain enough pigment for the laser to absorb into.

Laser uses the dark pigment (melanin) as a target. The more melanin a hair contains the more heat it will absorb from the laser. When a laser is pulsed onto the skin light is absorbed into the hair shaft and heat is transferred into the follicle. Heat is directed down into the base of the follicle where it heats and disables the interconnecting cells that connect the small blood supply to the hair. This is a safe procedure and has been clinically trialed and tested by the FDA.

How does laser work on light hairs?

For laser to work on lighter hairs, higher intensities of laser must be used.  Medical grade lasers allow us to use these high intensities in the safest possible way. We use Alexandrite (For pale skin) and ND:Yag (For Darker skin) lasers. These will target dark fine hairs using high settings without compromising the safety of your skin. Both lasers are safe regardless of your skin colour. Our lasers have advanced cooling systems that keep the skin’s temperature cool. All while delivering high doses of heat into the follicle.

Hair density will determine how effective treatment will be.

How many sessions of laser will I require for light hair?

It is possible to achieve great results with lighter hairs but it just may take a little longer to reach your desired result. Most people would need 8+ sessions to see results. Lighter hairs have less pigment so for this reason you may need more. We believe in being totally honest with you from the start. We will only recommend you start laser if we think your hairs will be dark enough to respond to treatment.

It is more difficult to achieve a reduction on lighter hairs because they lack pigment. Only lighter hairs that contain dark pigment will work with laser. White, blond, grey or red hairs will not respond to treatment. Laser hair removal can work on light hair but it may take more sessions. Results for this hair type cannot be guaranteed.

If you are unsure if your hair is suitable why not contact us to book a free laser consultation. We can assess your skin and hair and give you honest advice about treatment. Our dedicated team of hair removal specialists are on hand to answer any of your questions.

Nov 13, 2017 12:00 AM

Author: Suzanne Young

Does laser hair removal mean the end of waxing, shaving, tweezing and other painful hair removal methods? Advertisements for laser hair removal are all over, but does it really work? Hailey Richards, University of Utah Health Master Esthetician and laser hair removal expert, answers the basic questions everyone should know before starting laser hair removal.

How does laser hair removal work?

The primary goal of laser hair removal is to utilize a laser to target and kill hair follicles. Once the hair follicle is dead, the hair won’t grow back.

Do you guarantee 100% hair removal?

I never guarantee 100% permanent removal. If businesses are promising 100% removal, I would be worried because after customers have paid thousands of dollars, they can go out of business and it's rare to get your money back.

How can I get the most effective hair removal laser treatment?

Multiple treatments are needed for the best results. I advise at least 12 treatments, but there is no set number a person can have to achieve optimal results. The key is to be consistent. Be sure to come back when you are supposed to, which is typically around 4-6 weeks depending on the body area.

Are there any areas on the body people should avoid? 

I can laser just about anywhere, but I never shape eyebrows with the laser. It's not precise enough to shape brows, and it's too close to the eyes.

Is it painful? 

The procedure isn't usually too painful, but certain areas of the body can be more sensitive, such as the bikini line, or upper lip areas. Pain tolerance varies, so it depends on the person. If a patient has a difficult time with the procedure, a topical numbing cream can be applied one hour before the appointment to provide relief.

What are the risks?

Risks can include burns, blisters, scabs, welts, scarring, pigment changes such as hyperpigmentation, or hypopigmentation, or the possibility that the hair cannot be removed permanently and continues to grow back.

Does it work on all hair colors?

Laser hair removal is best on dark, coarse hair. It will not respond to red, white, or blond hair because the laser light searches for the dark pigment in the hair follicle, so it will not see lighter hair.

Can all skin tones receive laser hair treatment?

With the right laser, all skin types can be treated. The lighter your skin is the safer it is, because the laser is searching for dark pigment. Darker skin types such as Asian, Hispanic, or African skin need to be treated more carefully so that the laser doesn’t burn the skin or upset their pigment in any way.

Will pregnancy affect laser hair removal? 

I've seen hair brow back if women become pregnant, because pregnancy changes hormone levels, which can cause hair to grow back. Once the baby is born and hormones return to normal, after a few laser treatments things usually go back to the way they were.

What is your opinion about Groupon deals?

Be careful with Groupon deals at salons and spas. There usually isn’t a doctor on site to monitor the treatments.

Is it safe to receive laser hair removal at a salon or spa?

I advise that patients see someone at a doctor’s office, preferably at a dermatology or plastic surgery office where there is a doctor on site who understands the complexities of skin.

What is the future of laser hair removal technology?

Laser technology hasn't changed too much over the last 18 years, except they have made faster lasers, and built in cooling systems to make the procedure more comfortable. They still are unsuccessful with treating lighter hair colors.

Whether you choose laser hair removal or not, make sure you’ve done your research so you can get the most out of your laser hair removal treatments and avoid wasting what could be thousands of dollars.

It sounds like a total miracle! Which is why there are a few things dermatologists say you need to consider before going under the laser.

Getty Images

Grosse Point, Michigan-based dermatologist Shauna Diggs confirms to Allure that you can get lasered pretty much anywhere where there is hair, however, there are parts of your body on which the lasering process works faster. "The most popular areas for treatment are the face, underarms, bikini area, and lower legs," Diggs shares. "In studies, the underarms often respond the fastest, in part because it's the fairest area with the least sun exposure and has darker hair."

That said, the overall consensus from the dermatologists we spoke to is that if there's hair on it, you can laser it off, though for some people, depending on the pigment of their hair or skin, it may take a bit more effort.

Getty Images

This isn't a one-and-done deal, folks. If you're looking to eliminate the hair in a certain part of your body, it's going to take a few visits to the dermatologist (and there's no guarantee that it'll be gone forever, but more on that later). Diggs says it takes about six to eight sessions to get rid of at least 90 percent of the hair in an area. "The number of sessions that are needed can also vary depending on the location being treated," Diggs notes. "The body really wants to have hair in certain areas, such the vulva in the bikini area, so more sessions might be needed to this specific area." Keep in mind that the lasering sessions must also be spaced out: Toronto-based board-certified dermatologist Geeta Yadav suggests every six to eight weeks. 

Tracy Evans, a San Francisco-based board-certified dermatologist explains why some parts of the skin may need a little more laser love than others: "Skin with many hormonal receptors, such as the groin and beard area, can take many more treatments," Evans says. "In areas where the hair is finer (thinner), the hairs are more difficult to target, so they require more treatments. If the patient has a skin color that is close to their hair color, it can also take more treatments."

Another important thing to keep in mind is that hair grows on the body at different times. "Facial hair is spaced three to four weeks while body hair is four to eight," explains New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Diane Madfes. "It takes anywhere from three to eight sessions and possible yearly maintenance."

If a spot on your body has hair on it that the lasers can pick up, you can treat it. That includes your nipples, chest, or stomach. As Mark says, it's less about the area and "more about hair color and background skin."

That also brings up the very important issue: Laser hair removal ain't for everybody. "Those with dark, thick hair and light skin are the best candidates for laser," shares Mariwalla. "However, you can do laser hair removal if you have skin of color, so long as the right wavelength of the laser is used." Natural blondes, this also concerns you: "The technology has not evolved enough to get good results for blonde, gray, or red hair," says Mariwalla, though she also reassures us that there are people working on updating the technology so that all people can use this service. The issue with lighter hair colors is that "there is not enough pigment to absorb the laser energy and damage the hair follicle," as Bruce Katz, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City explains.

If you're someone whose skin is a bit more melanin-rich, you're going to have to do a little research into what kind of laser the dermatologist is using. Corey L. Hartman, a board-certified dermatologist based in Birmingham, Alabama, says that there is only one laser that works effectively on dark skin and that is the 1064nm Nd:YAG laser. "This laser is selective for the pigment in the hair and bypasses the pigment in the skin so that there is no blistering or scarring associated with the procedure," he explains. "Remember, hair removal is advanced laser surgery and the operator of the device is just as important as selecting the appropriate laser."

It's more than just about using a laser that actually removes the hair on darker skin tones. It's also about minimizing any adverse effects that may pop up. "The heat associated with laser hair removal can trigger hyperpigmentation in dark skin, especially if there is inflammation that persists longer than a few minutes following the treatment," Hartman says. "The correct device will also have a cooling apparatus that delivers a blast of cold air milliseconds after the pulse of the laser to cool the skin and prevent discoloration."

How much you'll shell out for your treatments depends on what you're getting lasered, where you're getting lasered, and what types of tools the dermatologist is using. Some of the estimates we got are around $200 to $400 per session.

Lasers ain't nothing to play with, which is why dermatologists say it's best to get the procedures done at a time when your body isn't exposed to a ton of sunlight. "Whenever your skin color is the lightest is the best time to get laser hair removal, and this is the wintertime for most people," says Diggs. "Since the laser targets melanin pigment in the hair follicle, it can also target melanin pigment in the skin."

If you just went on vacation and got a cute little tan, you're going to want to postpone that lasering treatment.  

If you're the adventurous DIY type, there's also the option of doing laser hair removal at home with a tool. Of course, the tools aren't as powerful as what you may find in a dermatologist's office. But, as Mark and most of the other dermatologists we asked advise, your best bet is to get it done by a medical professional. "I highly recommend doing this at the dermatologist's office," Mark stresses. "The key to any procedure is knowing how to manage any complications that may occur. The dermatologist is the expert in skin and best suited to minimize and manage any potential risks."

Hartman also warns folks with darker skin to leave the at-home lasers alone. "Dark skin should exert the most caution with lasers in general, but especially without supervision because they can [make hyperpigmentation worse.]"

Nothing in life is guaranteed, and that includes laser hair removal. "When [the treatment] was approved, the definition of 'permanent hair removal'  was defined as a significant reduction of hair in the treated area," says Marks. “Not 'all treated hair is gone forever.'" As we mentioned before, we're mammals — we grow hair! So you may find some errant strands pop up in between sessions, or experience some new growth well after your sessions are all completed. If it's really bothering you, use a razor.

"The laser only treats the hair that you have today, not the hair that you grow later, so that is why additional sessions over the years are good," explains Diggs. "Also, hormonal changes can often cause additional hair growth and should be managed to keep the hair away, such as in PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome) or peri-menopause."

So, your skin reacts to everything. Don't worry, you can still probably get lasered, but as Claire Wolinsky, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City notes, it's important to do the work to make sure that the lasers won't irritate your skin. "A test spot is particularly prudent for patients with sensitive skin," she advises. "Reducing the energy [the laser uses] in sensitive patients may be necessary without compromising the benefit, especially in the beginning sessions when the hair density is greater."

You've done your research, confirmed that you qualify, and have booked your first appointment. Before you step into that office, take stock of what's going on with your body. Are you menstruating? Yadav suggests putting off the treatment until after your period or before the next one. "The body can be more sensitive to pain during this time," Yadav says. She also advises avoiding caffeine before your appointment for the same reason. "Try drinking a lot of water [the day of your session] and taking an over-the-counter pain reliever about 45 minutes before to help reduce any sensitivity," she elaborates.

Also, pay attention to what you're wearing the day of. "If you're getting treated in an area that's usually covered by clothing, wear or bring very loose clothing to your session to avoid any irritation caused by garments rubbing the skin," Yadav advises. "And don't forget to ask your provider for some cortisone cream for some topical relief."

What you do after a laser session is important, too. The dermatologists we asked all agree that sunscreen is a crucial component to taking care of your skin afterward. "It's important after a laser hair treatment to protect from sun exposure and use a mild soothing topical cream," says Madfes. She suggests using an over-the-counter cortisone or an aloe-based product for this "Topicals with aloe, turmeric, squalene, and hyaluronic acid are beneficial ingredients to use," she says. Madfes also notes that some people may temporarily heal darker a first.

Oh, and that sun protection note also goes for the melanin-rich, too. "The skin is more vulnerable to ultraviolet and visible light immediately after treatment," explains Hartman. "If there is a prolonged period of redness or skin irritation following the treatment, consider a mild topical corticosteroid cream to reduce inflammation quickly so that the risk of hyperpigmentation is diminished."

If you notice your skin feels a little irritated after a session, don't panic. "Swelling around the hair follicles is completely normal post-laser, but if extensive, this can be uncomfortable and itchy," says Wolinsky. "Hydrocortisone cream can be applied immediately after to soothe the skin if irritated." Also, make sure your dermatologist is using a cooling jelly during the session to keep your skin from overheating.